Is the choice of ink significant in PMU?
Indeed, it is important as it can influence expectations for long-term results.
At the start of my career, I exclusively used organic inks. Seven years later, I primarily work with inorganic and/or hybrid inks. I have now explored using Monica Ivani, Jenn Boyd, and LI pigments, and my work is returning after 6-12 months with more knowledge and understanding.
Organic pigments consist of carbon rings and chains, while inorganic pigments are sourced from natural minerals. It's a bit odd that the names aren't opposite.
Organic pigments are vibrant and offer a wider range of colors because they are synthetic, lab made.
They consist of smaller particles that penetrate the skin quickly.
They reflect more light and are more transparent.
They are bright, quick to implant, and long-lasting.
They spread and pixelate more easily on the skin.
Inorganic pigments are derived from natural minerals such as metals and iron oxides.
They have muted and earthy tones.
They consist of larger particles requiring more layers to implant.
They reflect less light and are opaque (less see through).
They do not last as long on the skin.
The advantage of organic pigments is their easy spreadability in the skin, requiring fewer passes. They last longer; however, this can be a disadvantage if flexibility for change is desired. Additionally, organic ink may not settle well in compromised, capillary, thin, or sensitive skin. The presence of carbon black can be a drawback as it may cause an appearance of ashy or grey tones. You may click the tina davies article link below to see images of examples.
Discoloration of organic ink can be avoided by keeping it airy, adding warmth (orange), applying it carefully to build up to darker colors allowing healing in between sessions.
Inorganic ink tends to fade warmer over time, though not as red as past inorganic pigments. The disadvantage is that it fades quicker and takes longer to implant which may require more sessions. The other advantage is that it is more forgiving if the client doesn't heal well in some areas of the eyebrow ridge.
Finally, manufacturers have improved inks by combining inorganic and organic colorants to leverage the advantages of both. Some inks contain more inorganic components, while others have more organic. Artists can research the ink composition by examining the CI numbers on the bottles and conducting searches.
Here are the lines I use for eyebrows and how I use them.
Monica Ivani: Inorganic Mineral/Iron Oxide (shading)
Jenn Boyd: Hybrid/Leaning Inorganic Mineral (shading)
LI: Hybrid/Leaning Inorganic Mineral (shading)
Permablend: Leaning Organic (shading)
Browdaddy: Leaning Organic (shading)
Hanafy: Leaning Organic (nano and shading)
Meka: Organic (nano)
I incorporate Soft FX thinner solution into all inorganic pigments to enhance their spreadability on the skin for a more airy result which may make them appear lighter when they heal. If this is the case, we can choose a darker pigment at the initial session or fill them in with higher saturation (solid) knowing that they'll fade significantly. If that makes you uncomfortable, we can build it up to three sessions within the course of a year. There is give and take with pmu but it's all about the client, their investment, time and expectations.
Attached are a few documents for further reading if you wish to prepare in advance with your questions.
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